A Behind-the-Scenes Look
This is the space behind the finished pieces—the worktables, tools, experiments, and creative detours that eventually become part of a collection.
I've always enjoyed learning new techniques and working with a variety of materials, which means there is usually something interesting happening on the bench. Some ideas work exactly as planned. Others take a few wrong turns before finding their way.
Here you'll find a behind-the-scenes look at the tips, favorite tools and creative processes that shape Bee City Studio creations. If you're curious about how things are made, you're in the right place.🐝
Every finished piece begins with a thought, and many of mine begin here.
We create in all kinds of ways. Some of us paint. Some garden. Some write. Some build furniture, decorate homes, quilt, cook, restore old cars, or make jewelry. The medium isn't what matters. The joy comes from giving an idea a chance to become something real.
Somewhere along the way, many of us begin believing there is a "right" way to create. We compare our work to someone else's, worry about whether it's good enough, or decide we simply aren't creative. I don't believe that's true. I think creativity begins the moment we give ourselves permission to explore an idea without demanding perfection from it.
I don't believe creativity belongs only to artists. I think it lives in anyone who enjoys making, building, growing, writing, cooking, decorating, designing, restoring... or simply imagining something that didn't exist before.
This page is a glimpse into my own creative process—the sketches, inspirations, gemstones, materials, experiments, and little discoveries that eventually become finished pieces. My hope isn't that you'll create the way I do - or that you create anything at all. It's that you'll give yourself permission to explore your own ideas, wherever they take you.
Step into My Workroom - Article Guide
Inspiration!
You would think inspiration from color itself would come easy. But it doesn't. At least not for me. And then I remember, color theory is a science, so no wonder. (I was never good at science!)
For centuries artists and designers have been using the color wheel for color harmony and scheme creation, precise color mixing, and mood and emotional control. At least, that's what Google says.
Still, I find the color wheel a bit daunting. It has taught me how to determine how one color relates to another, but I don't really find it helpful for inspiration. What I have found helpful are color palettes. And I was gifted some color cubes designed by Australian artist Sarah Renee Clark a couple of years ago and they've completely changed the way I approach color.
Fun Facts:
Isaac Newton developed the color Wheel in 1704.
Sarah Renee Clark developed the Color Cube in 2021!
When I see the cubes on my worktable, they remind me to step out of my color comfort zone. I really needed these because I am drawn to the same colors over and over again. I have twice as many beads in blues and greens as I do in any other color. And frankly, reaching for the same colors over and over again hinders my creativity -- and I doubt that my customers would only like blue or green earrings to choose from. That's when it's time to pull out the color cube! An example of how pulling a palette card can manifest into a design is shown in the video below.
For the painted earrings above, I had a design in mind, but I didn't know what colors I wanted to use. After sorting through the cards and finding a pretty color combination, I chose my paints and began creating - without fear of muddying colors or creating garish combinations.
Probably the thing I like best about the cubes is the digital companion that came with it. It's stored on my computer and I can identify a theme, season or mood I would like to capture, and it display the various palettes that apply. Then I simply go to the box and pull the card, and as you can see in the video, it is a tangible guide that can sit right next to whatever piece is in process at the moment. Below are snippets from the digital files showing how they are displayed on the screen. I can click on any one and it will pop up a palette.
You can simply browse until you find something that inspires you. You will note no particular sorting, no numbers of palettes are visible. Just clickable color inspiration.
I chose "Cool" as my theme for this discussion and it pulled up all the "cool" theme-related palettes in this particular cube (I have a set of two). The numbers depicted are the number of the actual color card. ("Drink" just happened to be the next category.)
This is a picture of the color palette I chose from the "Cool" choices. Digitally, the information is all showing on the face; the cube has just the colors and photo on the front, and the "science" on the back.
You will note Sarah has covered the science part with references to Hex codes, RGB and CMYK Color models, and other themes where this palette lives. Artists and designers rely on consistent coding to ensure wherever their work turn-up - online, on paper, in store - the colors are exactly the same. To that end, these cubes are brilliant. They're fun. And they work, even for the casual artist!
This was one of the most thoughtful gifts my husband has ever given me, and it's become one of favorite tools in my studio. I'm so grateful for his support of my creative endeavors. 🐝
Credit where credit is due:
Sarah Renee Clark is a artist in Melbourne, Australia who designs coloring books. She frequently struggled to choose fresh, harmonious colors for her artwork and coloring pages. She initially designed a digital color catalog to compile her favorite color palettes, but she wanted a more tactile, hands-on way to physically compare colors to her artwork. She designed the cubes to help beginners and experienced artists, like herself, bypass complex color theory rules, offering instant visual inspiration and exact color matches.🎨
A Child's Toy - An Artist's Playground
Polymer clay is one of those mediums that can bring delight to both children and adults. Children love to create figures like dinosaurs and flowers. It's something fun to keep little fingers busy. Artists find the medium so extremely versatile, its applications are truly endless. It's often called a creative chameleon.
If you have an interest in learning more about polymer clay, Ginger Davis Allman is an expert. You can find her here. 🐝
I never set out to become a polymer clay artist. I simply wanted to make components that felt more personal than anything I could buy. That curiosity led to countless experiments with patterns, textures, color, and surface techniques. The pieces below are a glimpse into that season of exploration—part practice, part discovery, and occasionally, exactly what I had hoped for.
A slap made from pieces of clay in various shapes and colors placed on top of slab of clay in a solid color. Then the sheet is rolled flat to become a "slab." The slab is rolled to aa sheet of clay to the desired thickness of earrings components. This slab made many pair of flirty summer earrings. Three of them are shown below. To finish the earrings they were top-coated in resin and attached to various components some also made from the slab. (Photo taken before it was rolled totally flat to absorb the additions.)
Made with ceramic bead caps and frosty white beads.
Tear drop earrings made with polymer clay connectors from the same slab.
A flirty Floral earring assembled with a connectors made from the slab.
Three colors - lime, yellow and green - plus back and white
A mix of Mokume Gane, slab, and metallic stencil techniqiues.
Slabs made with canes and Skinner blends finished with resin topcoats.
Perhaps My Favorite: Faux Ceramic and Faux Porcelain
Faux china disks made with handmade resin paints and a pearlescent resin overlay.
Handrolled beads in white polymer clay, stamped, baked with hand-colored liquid clay glaze.
Bunnies painted with hand-dyed liquid polymer clay, then baked to a faux porcelain finish.
I would still consider myself a newbie when it comes to creating jewelry components from polymer clay. Last year, I spent a lot of time experimenting and learning what I could. But the more I learned, the more I realized I was only touching the tip of the iceberg. And while I enjoyed it very much, I realized I want to have some basic polymer clay skills in my tool box, but I don't want to be solely a polymer clay jewelry artist. I enjoy assemblage too much, and so I mastered a few skills I knew I would use to incorporate into my jewelry, and used what I made to create some wonderful pieces. 🐝
Product Photography: To AI or Not AI? That Is the Question
One of the biggest discussions among artists and makers today is whether product photos should be traditional photographs or enhanced with artificial intelligence. Like any new technology, opinions range from enthusiastic adoption to complete rejection.
Rather than debating which approach is "right," I thought it might be interesting to compare the two side by side using photographs of one of my own handmade pieces.
Great documentation photo.
Shows construction well.
The natural stone complements the botanical theme..
The shallow depth of field keeps attention on the bee.
AI creates a completely new environment around the bracelet, but it's a complete AI fail.
Reflections, lighting, and atmosphere produce a natural, lived-in feel.
While at first glance it's near perfect, you can see the bracelet "breaks" at the top of the vase, and falls off the edge of the table.
Background transformed into a handcrafted ceramic setting.
Softer lighting and increased depth draw attention to the bee focal.
AI almost got it right. The bracelet remains unchanged while the overall mood becomes warmer and more refined. But note how the bracelet appeaprs to go through the prop.
Background transformed into a handcrafted ceramic setting.
Softer lighting and increased depth draw attention to the bee focal.
The bracelet remains unchanged while the overall mood becomes warmer and more refined. This is my favorite AI rendition, but if we have to settle for flaws, I think I prefer my own imperfect photos.
The above photographs are examples of both approaches. Neither is "right" or "wrong." Each has strengths, limitations, and a different purpose. Every image in this comparison began with an actual photograph of a real, handmade bracelet sitting in front of my camera. The AI versions weren't created from nothing—they were built from those original photographs, using software to change backgrounds, improve lighting, or place the piece into a new environment. Even with the fails noted above, AI could be useful to help me design my own photography lay-out using similar props and lighting.
The real question isn't whether AI should replace photography. It's whether it can become another creative tool in an artist's toolbox. As with any artistic decision, the goal is simply to present the work honestly while creating an image that invites someone to stop...and take a closer look. 🐝
Designed, created and fired in my Camp PMC Certification Class, at Metal Crafters Studio in Belleville, Illinois. The class was taught by Gerry Dahm, certified instructor for Mitsubishi's Camp PMC.
What is PMC?
Precious Metal Clay is a relatively new medium that has taken the artisan jeewelry world by storm. Originally developed as part of Mitsubishi's research into powder metallurgy in 1990, the remarkable material combined microscopic particles of precious metal with an organic binder and water, creating a clay-like substance that could be shaped by hand and transformed into solid metal through firing at high temperatures. The first commercial product, made from 24-karat gold, was soon followed by the more affordable and immensely popular fine silver PMC. When fired at 1,110 degrees,, the binder burns off revealing .999 genuine silver, a silver more pure than sterling silver, which is .925. 🐝
My first introduction to Precious Metal Clay (PMC) came in a class at La Bead Oh! in Springfield, Illinois, sometime around 2009. Each student received a small packet of clay and a quick lesson on the basics. Although it's been quite a few years, I still remember the instructor's list of "rules" more vividly than I remember what I actually made!
Before we even touched the clay, we were told:
Keep your fingers lubricated!
Work quickly once you open the package!
Keep the unused clay tightly wrapped—it dries out fast!
Look carefully for cracks before firing!
Repair cracks with a damp paintbrush... but don't use too much water!
Once it's dry, sand away any rough spots before firing!
Before firing make sure your piece is completely dry!
Save every tiny shaving you sand off—it costs too much to waste!
And if you do this at home, whatever you do, read the firing instructions and make sure you know your kiln! (I didn't have a kiln.)
By the end of that list, working with metal clay sounded more like defusing a bomb than making jewelry.
Then came the expectations:
Sometimes pieces crack despite your best efforts.
Your design will shrink by at least 10%, depending on the formula.
Don't expect perfection on your first attempt.
Daunting, to say the least.
And then they handed out the clay.
I received a little packet about the size of a quarter.
Now, if you've ever worked with traditional clay—or even just imagined doing so—I'm guessing you pictured a nice, satisfying lump that filled your palm. I certainly did.
Instead, I was holding something barely larger than a quarter and thinking, "I'm supposed to make jewelry out of this?"
As it turns out, precious metal clay has always been sold in surprisingly small quantities because, well... it's precious metal. Some packets contained as little as 7 grams of clay. Ours that day were a generous 25 grams, though at the time it certainly didn't feel generous!
Looking back now, I laugh at how intimidating that first class seemed. What I didn't realize then was that, like most creative pursuits, the rules eventually become second nature—and once they do, all that's left is the joy of creating. 🐝
7 grams of silver clay sells for about $45 today.. This clay formula is for .999 silver, more pure than sterling silver. PMC was discontinued in 2023, but is still availble through some suppliers until their inventory is gone. I have yet to try another brand, but am looking forward to experiment with other formulas.
When you're just beginning, your designs tend to be fairly simple. Mine certainly were! They were more like little cookie-cutter shapes than intricate works of art, but I remember feeling an enormous sense of pride after getting decent results, since the rules were strict and we were encouraged to embrace failure.
You can see here the two pieces have different finishes. At the time, I didn't own any of the specialty chemicals commonly used to create a dark patina on silver. Instead, I relied on a trick many metal clay artists used in those days—I reached into the refrigerator for an egg, then headed for the stove to boil it.
After firing, fine silver emerges with a dusty, almost white appearance. You bring out the luster of the metal by burnishing it either by hand, or in a tumbler. Then, to create the darker contrast that helps bring out textures and details, the silver needs to be exposed to sulfur. And that's where the hard boiled egg comes in. A freshly boiled egg naturally releases small amounts of sulfur, so I simply cracked one open, placed it in a sealed bag with my silver heart, and let nature do the rest.
When you're just starting out and every dollar counts, you learn to be resourceful. Sometimes the fanciest tool in the studio is... lunch!
Precisely 30 grams of gel fuel is used to achieve the perfect firing temperature to sinter metal clay in ceramic kiln.
The top of the kiln features a wire mesh vent
Removing the vent to show the firing platform,, suitable to hold 1 to 5 jewelry pieces.
Assembled and ready to go. Although this photographed in my kitchen, all firing in this kiln is done outside.
My First Kiln: A PMC Ceramic Pot!
Because PMC requires exact temperatures to fuse the metal particles without melting them, traditional large, deep commercial kilns proved unreliable. So tabletop "beehive" or clamshell ceramic kilns were developed specifically for PMC. Although compact and not much to look at, they provided the precise, tightly controlled heating environments needed for the rapid sintering of precious metals using a special gel fuel. For many years, this was the kiln I used to fire all my pieces. It does create somewhat of a stink when it fires, so it is recommended to be fired outside in a well-vented area. The gel fuel worked really well, and if I felt a second firing was needed due to an extra thick or larger-than-normal piece, I just refilled the little ceramic cup and fired a second time. It should be noted that metal clay can also be torch-fired, but personally, I haven't had much luck with that method.
Because art metal clays have evolved over time, larger, programmable electronic temperature-controlled kilns are now used, and I'm pleased to say that I was gifted one by my family for Christmas a few years ago. It is so easy to use and can be used for other purposes, like fusing glass and annealing lamp work beads..
I still like to work with PMC3 the best, and am fortunate with the current prices of silver I still have a small supply in my stock. This kiln has an automatic ramping feature to heat the kiln to the exact temperature of 1,110 degrees that is required for PMC 3, It is also programmed to hold it at temperature for 30 minutes. This kiln has given me confidence that my pieces will be fully sintered every time. 🐝
I have dabbled in metal clay through the years in spurts. It is a costly hobby with the price of clay fluctuating with the silver market, and set up to create even one piece is finicky. But even though I haven't worked in the medium consistently, since 2009 I had wanted to be a certified metal clay artist. In 2021, I achieved that dream by attending Camp PMC in Belleville. Prior to certification, I had only worked with the PMC3, knowing there were other formulas, like Sterling Silver PMC, Sheet PMC (also called paper) and Flex PMS, and Syringe, each having different attributes and applications. Add the variety of tools needed to create unique pieces (fireable gems, molds, texture mats, mandrels, and more). It was a two-day course, offering exposure to the techniques and tools used by professionally metal clay artists. To achieve certification we needed to employ specific techniques using specific formulas, and once fired, your pieces had to meet a certain standard. I have taken classes is many mediums to hone my skills, including several other classes in PMC, but one of the proudest moment for me as a jewelry designer was earning my certification number and joining the ranks of approximately 3,500 other certified metal clay artists in the United States. 🐝
Some visitors may find these COVID-era photos a little jarring. They are, however, the only photographs I have from my certification class, and I believe they capture something important about that moment in time. They remind me of the resilience and determination so many of us shared. COVID wasn't going to stop us from pursuing our passions, and I admired the venue for finding a way to keep the classes going. "Adapt and persevere"—that became my motto.
We started the day reviewing the basics, then began our certification projects. This was the day we weorked with typical clay packs, like PMC Sterling. Here, I'm working on my sterling silver ring before adding the beze and Cubic Zirconia.
This is the day we were working with Flex PMC, and refining our projects, getting them ready for firing and finishing techniqiues. The l the tools were literally endless., and the jeweler's bench featured multi-level working surfaces.
It was an inatimate class. From left: Gerry Dahm, Iinstructor; yours truly, and my other classmate (I wish I remembered her name). Metak Crafters Studio had a huge supply of tools for anything metal working, visible in the background.
The evolution of my skills from my cookie cutter days to creating jewelry with layers, textures and embedded gems, makes me realize how far I've come. Although I don't work in this medium often, it gives me a great sense of satisfaction when I do. Top picture from top left: sterling silver ring with texture and cubic zirconia; rolled tube beads with texture using PMC Flex; a toggle clasp and bar set; earrings with texture, using sheet PMC, cubic zirconia set in handmade flower bezels, and embedded wire . At left: a multi-layered shield-shaped pendant, with two distinct textures, a coil bail made with syringe PMC, and small silver balls, created from PMC3.. I can recognize how my skills are improving., but there is still much learning this medium ahead. 🐝
Precious Metal Clay (PMC®) was invented in 1990 by metallurgist Dr. Masaki Morikawa while working for Mitsubishi Materials Corporation in Japan. Originally developed as part of Mitsubishi's research into powder metallurgy, the remarkable new material combined microscopic particles of precious metal with an organic binder and water, creating a clay-like substance that could be shaped by hand and transformed into solid metal through firing. The first commercial product, made from 24-karat gold, was soon followed by the more affordable and immensely popular fine silver PMC.
The invention revolutionized jewelry making. For the first time, artists could sculpt, texture, stamp, carve, and form precious metal much like ceramic clay, making fine jewelry techniques accessible to beginners while opening exciting new creative possibilities for experienced metalsmiths. Mitsubishi continued refining the product line with innovations such as PMC+, PMC3, PMC Flex, and PMC Sterling, each offering improvements in firing temperature, strength, and shrinkage.
Around the same time, another Japanese company, Aida Chemical Industries, introduced Art Clay Silver®, a competing silver metal clay that quickly became popular throughout the world. Both companies continued advancing the technology through new formulations, paste, syringe, and paper versions, establishing metal clay as a respected medium in contemporary jewelry making.
In 2023, Mitsubishi discontinued the entire PMC® product line after more than three decades, marking the end of the brand that introduced metal clay to the world. Although many artists still treasure and use remaining supplies, the art form itself continues to thrive.
Today, jewelers have access to an expanding range of precious and base metal clays from manufacturers around the world. Some of the best-known names include:
Art Clay Silver® (Aida Chemical Industries)
Aussie Metal Clay
Metal Magic®
FYI Silver Metal Clay
BRONZclay™ and COPPRclay™ (Metal Adventures)
Hadar's Clay® (powder-form bronze, copper, steel, and brass clays)
These products now encompass fine silver, enriched sterling silver, gold, bronze, copper, brass, steel, and iron, allowing artists to choose materials based on their creative vision, firing methods, and desired finished appearance. More than thirty years after its invention, metal clay continues to evolve, offering artists an ever-growing palette of possibilities while honoring the groundbreaking innovation that began at Mitsubishi Materials in 1990. 🐝
This is raw brass, shown in a very brassy state, with machine oils visible on the surface.
Brass has become one of the signature materials in my work. There is something timeless about its warm, golden glow and the way it naturally develops character over time.
Whether I'm creating a vintage-inspired necklace, a free-spirited boho design, or a piece that feels as though it could have wandered out of a Renaissance marketplace, brass provides the perfect foundation.
I've always been drawn to the beauty of aged brass, and over the years I've found a handful of trusted suppliers whose components have become favorites in my studio. Many of those pieces arrive at my studio beautifully patinaed, but some arrive in raw brass form, without any patina at all. Raw brass is very yellow, almost garish. The term "brassy" has a connotation of being unpleasantly bright, with a cheap yellow-metallic appearance - and rightly so - it's pretty unappealing.
Raw brass frequently comes with a light coating of machine oils, requiring cleaning in a solution of vinegar and Dawn dish soap. But after a good cleaning, it's ready for my personal touch to bring it to the beautiful rendering of "aged brass" that I love to work with. And this is where the fun begins!
Raw brass, after cleaning, is highly yellow, not useable in this form. It needs to be hand-rendered before using.
These were received by the supplier with a beautiful patina, out-of-the-package-raady to use in designing.
Jax brown is my favorite patina solution. It transforms the brass slowly for controlled enhancement to the desired color.
I use a small bowl with a little Jax solution , moving the piece around and brushing it as necesssary using a silicond brush.
Sometimes the patina settles unevenly and appears to dull the finish. But sanding the piece with a relief block restores life to the brass.
Sanding and buffing with polishing cloth ensures control over the final results, for a near perfect match so I can begin creating jewelry!
Designs like these are made possible by combining beautifully crafted aged brass components from suppliers with raw brass components that I patina myself, creating pieces that feel both timeless and uniquely their own. 🐝
This is a typical pile of vegetable tanned leather I receive from my suppliers. This is where every Bee City Studio leather creation begins.
Using Texture & Color
Most every artistic creation begins with a blank canvas, a raw material, a vision, and the know-how to bring something to life from nothing. Creating from leather is no different.
In my creations, I start with pieces of leather that are lacking in personality, then use texture, color, and form to give each piece its own unique character. 🐝
Before leather will take an impression or carving, it needs to be cased. Casing is one of the most important steps in preparing vegetable-tanned leather for tooling or wet forming. Proper casing ensures the leather reaches the ideal moisture level, making it easier to carve, stamp, and shape.
Pictured at the top left and center are leather tooling stamps. Some create a recognizable image, such as a butterfly, while others are individual design elements that are combined to build larger patterns and textures.
A wool-tipped dauber is used to apply moisture to the leather. Rather than spraying or pouring water directly onto the surface, the dauber provides better control and allows you to see how much moisture is being applied and how quickly it is absorbed.
This photograph was taken about 60 seconds after the top portion of the leather strip was cased. You can see where I began at the top, as the water has already been absorbed, while the area near the dauber remains visibly pooled. For stamped impressions to be clean and consistent, the moisture content needs to be uniform across the entire piece.
The texture plates I use are actually embossing folders designed for paper crafts. I cut them apart at the fold, resulting in two textures from a single embossing folder—a positive impression and a negative impression.
When pressed into damp leather with a manual press, they create the beautiful textures found in my jewelry. It is amazing how much difference a positive or negative impression can make in the finished piece, often influencing how I color the leather and highlight the design.
The middle texture plates shown in this photo (top and bottom) have very deep-cut designs that produce bold impressions. The leaf patterns in the bottom corners create a medium-depth texture, while the mandala designs in the top corners are much more subtle. The texture I choose depends entirely on the look I want to achieve in the finished piece.
While experimenting with leather, I found myself reaching for supplies that weren't made for leather at all. Instead of traditional leather dyes, I began using archival pigment inks - the same permanent inks popular in paper crafting and mixed media arts.
I've had excellent results with these inks and find they give me far greater control over color saturation, layering, and subtle fading effects. While I also keep leather paints in my creative arsenal, I prefer archival inks because they allow the leather to continue looking like leather, rather than taking on the coated appearance that acrylic paints can sometimes create. Archival inks are permanent and won't fade over time.
The inks also lend themselves beautifully to distressing. A bit of sanding with varying grits of sandpaper can reveal highlights and create an aged, timeworn character that feels as though the piece has a story to tell.
Although I wouldn't claim to have invented the technique, I also haven't seen any leather artists using archival pigment inks as their primary coloring medium. My approach simply grew from a willingness to step outside the traditional leatherworker's toolbox and experiment with materials from other creative disciplines. In many ways, it was a matter of coloring outside the lines—and discovering a process that has become one of the signatures of my work.
This was created from a deep impression texture plate, then colored with archival inks in a blue (top) and teal (bottom), with a blending of the colors at the midsection. These were quite dark with the depth of color from multiple swipes of the ink across the surface. This leather piece was used in the earrings below.
This texture was created from a very shallow texture plate. This was colored using fuschia, red, and orange inks, blending them where each color meets.
This texture plate is also shallow, but has lots of detail. There was less blending of color here, but more swipes of purple up against swipes of teal. I also did a bit of spot coloring on this, as you can see from the purple added to the right edge on the teal.
Once the leather reaches the desired color, it's time to decide on the shape of the finished piece. Cutting leather requires a surface with a bit of "give"—firm enough to produce a clean cut, but not so hard that it damages the tools. While I use a steel bench block for my metal work, it's much too rigid for leather cutting. Even though the cutters are made from hardened steel, repeated steel-on-steel impact, even through leather, will eventually dull their razor-sharp edges.
Instead, leatherworkers use specialized cutting surfaces that can withstand repeated pounding while protecting the cutting tools. Pictured from left are leather cutters (think cookie cutters made from hardened steel with blade-sharp edges), a poundo board and cutting mat (designed to protect those cutting edges), a nylon hammer, utility blades for trimming and cleaning up edges, and leather cutting dies. Most leather-cutting dies are available in a variety of shapes and sizes from leather supply companies and Etsy sellers.
These are some finished pieces created from the first leather veneer shown above. They are absolutely beautiful in person, and while I think these photographs capture them well, the pieces themselves are even more striking. I love the finish the archival ink lends to the leather—almost like a soft, brushed patina. By using a leather tool called a wooden edge burnisher (or wooden leather slicker), I can compress the fibers and bring out the leather's natural richness, creating a smooth, polished finish. While I did not do that here, as I wanted a more natural look, a burnished finish is also beautiful.
I have thoroughly enjoyed experimenting with leather and creating one-of-a-kind pieces. Collecting the tools that bring leather to life has become one of the unexpected pleasures of the journey. Every new tool, technique, and discovery opens the door to new creative possibilities, reminding me that there is always something new to learn. I hope this glimpse into my process has inspired you to look at leather—and perhaps even a few unconventional supplies—in a new way. 🐝
Leatherworking Glossary
Antiquing – A finishing technique that highlights stamped impressions and tooling by leaving a darker color in the recessed areas, creating depth and an aged appearance.
Archival Pigment Ink – A permanent, fade-resistant ink commonly used in paper crafting and mixed media. Although not designed specifically for leather, I use archival inks to build transparent layers of color while preserving the natural look of the leather.
Beveler – A leatherworking tool used to soften or round the sharp edges of cut leather before burnishing.
Burnishing – The process of smoothing and polishing leather by compressing its fibers with friction, often using a wooden or glass burnisher.
Cutting Die – A hardened steel tool used to cut consistent leather shapes when struck with a hammer or used in a press.
Edge Burnisher (Leather Slicker) – A wooden, glass, or acrylic tool used to smooth and polish the edges of leather after they have been cut and beveled.
Flesh Side – The back side of a piece of leather, where the natural fibers are visible.
Grain Side – The finished outer surface of the leather—the side that originally faced outward on the animal.
Leather Dye – A coloring product formulated to penetrate leather fibers rather than forming a surface coating.
Leather Stamp – A steel tool used to impress decorative textures and patterns into damp vegetable-tanned leather.
Patina – The rich character, subtle color changes, and softened appearance that develop naturally over time or are intentionally created through finishing techniques.
Poundo Board – A dense, resilient cutting surface that absorbs impact while protecting leather punches and cutting tools from damage.
Stamping – The process of creating textures or decorative impressions in damp vegetable-tanned leather using specialized steel stamps.
Vegetable-Tanned Leather – Leather tanned using natural plant tannins rather than chromium salts. It is ideal for stamping, tooling, carving, molding, and accepting dyes and finishes.
Tooling – The decorative process of carving, beveling, stamping, and texturing vegetable-tanned leather to create raised or recessed designs.
Many gemstones and semi-precious gemstones have long been associated with symbolic meanings and traditions shared across cultures for centuries. May people belief there are metaphysical benefits as well. If you would like to learn more about some of the stones I have listed above, click here.
Every artist has favorite tools, and every jewelry make has favorite stones. While I’m always experimenting with new materials there are a handful of stones that seem to find their way into my work again and again, Some are chosen for their earthy color palettes, others for the unique patterns that make each bead or pendant one of a kind.
Here are a few of the stones you’ll most often discover in Bee City Studio designs:
African Turquoise
Amazonite
Apatite
Aventurine
Carnelian
Citrine
Chrysocolla
Fluorite
Freshwater Pearls
Garnet
Jasper (various varieties)
Labradorite
Lapis Lazuli
Lemon Quartz
Moss Agate
Onyx
Sodalite
Turquoise
Not all my work features gemstones, but there is a special quality to jewelry designed of elements from the earth. Each stone speaks it's own quiet language, and it's no wonder each of us has our favorites, from pearls to turquoise, or birthstones to milestone markers. Whether it's the metaphysical qualities, the meaning behind them, or simply because of their beauty, stone choices are very personal. What's your favorite? 🐝
These are some of the gemstones in my stash From left: Amazonite, Mozambique Garnet, Plated Agate, Dyed Faceted Agate, Almondine Garnet, Dumortierite, Mixed Faceted Rondelles (Citrine, Smokey Quarts, Qgate, etc.); and Desert Jasper (beads and pendants). I have many more in my collection, but I laid these out for a photo after purchasing them at a gem show. 🐝